When the pandemic closed down his casual surf-and-turf restaurant for dine-in back in 2020, Matthew Kuscher, owner of Kush by Spillover in Miami, predicted that his post-COVID menu would be very different. “We offered many shareables and small plates, but when we reopen, we are remodeling the menu to the appetizer-entree-dessert format, focusing more on salads, sandwiches and entrees,” he told Restaurant Business that April.
As the coronavirus spiked across the country and vaccines were not yet in sight, many restaurateurs couldn’t imagine the day when patrons would want to share food again. Back then, Americans were quarantining at home, cleaning every surface with disinfecting wipes and fearful of virus spread through contact with an object another person had touched.
But here we are 16 months later, and Americans seem comfortable ordering shared appetizers, entrees and desserts for the table. Recent data from Yelp, the business review site, found that shared food experiences have made a comeback as people return to in-person dining. Compared to the same time period in 2019, tapas recovered to 82%, hot pot recovered to 75% and dim sum recovered to 84%.
“During the pandemic, people weren’t eating off the same plate,” said John C. Metz, co-owner of Marlow’s Tavern and The Woodall in Atlanta. “Then we saw families and close friends eating together and willing to share food. But now groups of unrelated people are craving connection and social interaction, and shareables are roaring back with a vengeance.”
Marlow’s customers are coming in and ordering a “bunch of appetizers,” said Metz. Favorites on the “For the Table” section of the menu include Shrimp and Crab Nachos and the new Firecracker Shrimp, a plate of tempura shrimp with carrots, cilantro, roast peanuts and an Asian chili sauce. The Asparagus Fries with citrus aioli and tarragon, a signature on the starter/snack menu section, are also a popular shareable.
Crab Beignets photo courtesy of @ATLBestBites
The more upscale Woodall also has a “For the Table” appetizer list. Diners are ordering up Pigs in a Blanket made with Wagyu beef hot dogs, Smoked Salmon Dip with crispy capers, herbs and crostini and The Woodall Board, a selection of Mediterranean-style tapas. Customers are also sharing the Lump Crabmeat Beignets, listed in the “Cocktail Plates” section, said Metz.
Guests are back to splitting desserts, too, requesting several forks or spoons with their order, he said.
Kush by Spillover is still offering shareables too, although the selection has been pared down a bit. Among the crowd-pleasers are Frito Pie, Buffalo Cauliflower and Florida Alligator Bites.
However, Kuscher did follow through with some of the changes he mentioned last year.
The menu is bit less pricey and more approachable, with a variety of $16 burgers, salads and sandwiches. Entrees are all under $20 and include fish tacos, jambalaya and chicken and waffles.
Price may be another factor responsible for the surge in shareables. “People aren’t ordering like they used to,” said Andrew Darneille, owner and pitmaster of Smokecraft, a modern barbecue restaurant in Arlington, Va. “They’ve been coming in more often for drinks and shared appetizers rather than a full dinner, and are spending less.”
Photo courtesy of Smokecraft
Many of Smokecraft’s appetizers are infused with smoky flavors from the pit and are very shareable, offering unique items at good value. Specialties include Smoked Avocado Deviled Eggs with pickled onion, Grilled Peach and Prosciutto Crostini and All-American Nachos with smoked queso, jalapenos, avocado crema and other fixings. All sell for $13.95.
Asian, Middle Eastern and other global cuisines revolve around shared plates, and while a number of restaurants with this focus reconfigured their menus for off-premise during the pandemic, they are getting back to the ritual of sharing.
“Sharing is an age-old tradition in India, with everyone sitting down to the table and taking a spoonful or this and a spoonful of that from the same plates,” said Payal Sharma, owner and managing partner of Baar Baar, an Indian gastro bar in New York City. “We designed our whole menu around small plates and if people come in and order their own dish, they’re missing out on the experience.”
As the New York City restaurant scene gets back to speed, groups of guests are coming into the restaurant and enjoying an assortment of shared plates. She attributes this acceptance to the way Baar Baar serves the food. “The dishes are plated and presented in a modern way, not all mushed together, and the servers explain what works well with what to get the desired flavor profile,” she said.
Photo by Liz Clayman; courtesy of Baar Baar
A number of menu items come out pre-portioned and ready to share, easing the process. For example, the Indian breads, such as Piquillo Pepper & Onion Kulcha, is plated in four pieces so every guest can pick up their own. Small plates, including Sweet Potato Chaat and Goan Prawns, also come in individual pieces. And dishes like Lamb Keema Yderabadi, an Indian-style shepherd’s pie, can be divided in the kitchen if customers don’t want to dig in at the table.
“I’m not seeing that people are shying away from sharing,” said Sharma. “Shareables are here to stay.”