“Why does it smell different in here?” customers wonder when they visit one of six Wienerschnitzel locations in Corpus Christi, Texas.
The reason: The fryers are filled with beef tallow instead of vegetable oil in a three-month test prior to a possible wider rollout.
“I remember the flavor as a kid and I’m a fan. It has a bolder, richer flavor,” said JR Gallardi, CEO of Los Angeles-based Wienerschnitzel.
Up until the late 1990s, top fast-food chains used beef tallow for their French fries and other fried foods. But then the American Heart Association and other health professionals put the kibosh on it; beef tallow is high in saturated fat that can clog arteries and lead to heart disease. So restaurant chains made the switch to unsaturated vegetable oils in their fryers.
Now the health pendulum is swinging the other way. The recent U.S. Dietary Guidelines released in January are pro beef tallow as a “healthier” alternative to vegetable oils extracted from seeds, like canola and sunflower. While not everyone agrees, there is more agreement about the appealing flavor of beef tallow. A little over a year ago, Steak 'n Shake started cooking its fries in beef tallow for reasons of "taste and authenticity," and now sells branded 14-ounce jars of grass-fed beef tallow and American Wagyu beef tallow for use in home cooking.
“Consumer sentiment has been positive so far,” said Gallardi. “Seasoned customers say the flavor reminds them of old times, and those who were too young to remember are generally in favor of the switch.” During the test, Wienerschnitzel’s fries, corn dogs, chicken tenders and jalapeño poppers are all being fried in beef tallow.
Gallardi also sees beef tallow as a less processed choice than the vegetable oils typically used in fryers. “The more we can chip away on the processed foods we’re using, the better,” he said, agreeing with that recommendation in the new Dietary Guidelines.
Wienerschnitzel built awareness about the switch with billboards and social media.
The beef tallow Wienerschnitzel is sourcing is different than what was widely available last century. The product used to come in as a solid block, but now there are pourable versions that are easier and more consistent to use. While supply was a challenge when beef tallow first made its comeback, production is ramping up now, said Gallardi. “There’s enough capability to roll out nationally,” he added. Wienerschnitzel has 330 units in 14 states.
But the new frying medium had to pass two more tests before the rollout could expand to more locations: Is it cost-effective and is it operationally feasible?
The price point is on par with vegetable oil, said Gallardi. And as far as operations go, it looks like frying time and temperature are comparable to the product Wienerschnitzel was using before. “Initial results show that there’s also less residue in the fryers and the equipment is easier to clean,” he said.
While fries or jalapeño poppers cooked in beef tallow won’t be vegetarian, that shouldn’t alienate most of Wienerschnitzel’s customers, Gallardi believes. “Only a small percentage of our guests are vegetarian,” he said. The chain does serve veggie dogs and those are cooked on the flattop.
Wienerschnitzel is building awareness about the beef tallow changeover through social media and billboards in the Corpus Christi area. People are curious, and “letting them know about the change is attracting more customers,” said Gallardi.
So far, the beef tallow test is “coming out on the winning side,” he reported. But at the end of the three-month test, expansion will be gradual. “We’ll expand the market around Texas based off distribution and take it from there,” he said.
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