Ella Brennan, a force in New Orleans’ famed restaurant scene for more than 70 years, died this morning in her Big Easy home at age 92.
Brennan, known as Miss Ella, was the matriarch of a family who would give the city many of its best-known restaurants, including Commander’s Palace, Palace Cafe and Brennan’s, which is now run by her nephew, Ralph. He is far from the only family member to make his mark on the nation’s dining scene. The family tree also boasts such celebrated operators as Dickie Brennan, Ti Martin and Alex Brennan-Martin.
Miss Ella, the aunt, mother or grandmother to almost all of them, also nurtured some of the most renowned chefs in the business, including Emeril Lagasse, an unknown at the time she hired him, and Paul Prudhomme. By celebrating the cuisine and service of her native New Orleans, she also was a key figure in the elevation of regional American cuisine in the 1980s.
Brennan started her restaurant career at age 15, working in the landmark Old Absinthe House, a bar owned by her older brother, Owen. She followed her sibling to Vieux Carre, a fine-dining place striving to become the next Antoine’s or Galatoire’s.
The place was set to relocate to Bourbon Street in the heart of the French Quarter when Owen died of a heart attack. Ella took control of the relocation, renaming the establishment Brennan’s when it opened in 1946, and began what would become an involvement in the dining scene well into her late 80s.
When Ralph Brennan reopened Brennan’s a year or so ago, after a $20 million renovation, Ella agreed to visit for the first time in 40 years. She was said to have remarked to her sister, Dottie, that the restaurant looked a lot better than she remembered from the olden days.
Members help make our journalism possible. Become a Restaurant Business member today and unlock exclusive benefits, including unlimited access to all of our content. Sign up here.