An Austin, Texas, bakery and coffee shop known for its fried bacon, Hawaii’s oldest continually operating restaurant and a family-owned Chinese restaurant in Butte, Montana are among the James Beard Foundation’s America’s Classics award winners for 2023.
Six concepts ranging from a traditional fonda in Puerto Rico, to a fried-chicken joint in Oldenburg, Ind., were selected for this year’s America’s Classics award, which is given to restaurants with timeless appeal that are beloved regionally for quality food that reflects the character of the community, the Beard foundation said. To be eligible, restaurants must be at least 10 years old.
“The mission of the James Beard Awards is to celebrate excellence and that means recognizing the incredible work of long-standing restaurants that play such a crucial role in our communities, as our America’s Classics winners do,” said Clare Reichenbach, CEO of the James Beard Foundation, in a statement. “We are so excited to announce this year’s winners. Congratulations to all!”
Winners will be celebrated at the restaurant and chef award ceremony on June 5 at the Lyric Opera of Chicago.
Here are the winners for 2023:
The Avila family at Joe's Bakery & Coffee Shop./Photo courtesy of Annie Ray Photography.
Joe’s Bakery & Coffee Shop
Austin, Texas
Owner: Paula Avila
The Avila family first started serving Austin in 1935 with La Oriental Grocery & Bakery, operated out of their home. In 1962, the business moved and was acquired by Joe and Paula Avila, who created Joe’s Bakery & Coffee Shop. Now the shop is known for Mexican pan dulce, migas, pork carne guisadas, breakfast tacos and “fried bacon,” or thick-cut bacon dredged in flour and cooked on the flat top. It’s described as a melting pot of old and new Austin that also serves as a focal point for the neighborhood.
La Casita Blanca in San Juan, Puerto Rico./Photo courtesy of Ziu Rivera.
La Casita Blanca
Villa Palmeras
San Juan, Puerto Rico
Owners: Jesús Pérez Ruiz, Mildred De León, Leonardo Pérez De León, Jesús Pérez De León
Ruiz first opened Casita Blanca in 1980 in San Juan as a traditional Puerto Rican fonda, a casual and affordable family-run venue known for comfort food. Now run by Ruiz’s two sons, the restaurant draws patrons from all walks of life with its comida criolla, or Spanish-influenced Caribbean cuisine, including dishes like sopita del dia and bacalaito fritters with homemade hot sauce, or patitas de cerdo (pig’s feet). Meals end with a chichaito, an anise-flavored digestif.
The Manago Hotel and restaurant on Hawaii's Big Island./Photo courtesy of Manago Hotel.
Manago Hotel
Captain Cook, Hawaii
Owners: Britney and Taryn Manago
Described as Hawaii’s oldest continually operating restaurant, Manago Hotel began in 1917 when Japanese immigrants Kinzo Manago and his wife Osame Nagata began selling udon, bread, jam and coffee from their home, later adding cots for travelers between Hilo and Kona. The venue grew and expanded into a hotel and restaurant that served soldiers during World War II, under Army contract. The restaurant is largely unchanged since the 1940s, and the menu is spare, with dishes like liver and onions and local seafood. Entrees come with rice and side dishes, like Hawaiian banchan, and usually potato macaroni salad. Fourth generation Manago family members Britney and Taryn now run the hotel and restaurant.
The veggie pie at Nezinscot Farm in Maine./Photo courtesy of Samantha Varney.
Nezinscot Farm
Turner, Maine
Owners: Gloria and Gregg Varney
The Varney family has operated a farm for more than 100 years, which became the first organic dairy farm in Maine: Nezinscot Farm. In 1987, the Varneys opened a café and coffee shop there, later expanding to include a bakery, a fromagerie and charcuterie. The spot is known for homemade cheeses and meats, bagels, pies, breads and dishes that include scratch-made sausages and fresh eggs.
Some dishes on the menu at Pekin Noodle Parlor in Butte, Montana./Photo courtesy of Jerry Tam.
Pekin Noodle Parlor
Butte, Montana
Owner: Jerry Tam
Hum and Bessie Yow, the original owners, opened Pekin Noodle Parlor in 1911, with the help of Tam Kwong Yee. At first, the Yows served noodles and their version of chop suey to satisfy the yearnings of Chinese immigrants working in the mines and railroads of the region, though many of the authentic ingredients were not available.
The restaurant is on a second floor off Butte’s main drag, with only 17 tables, a side bar and a front room with windows showcasing Big Sky vistas. The menu is described as a time capsule with 16 varieties of the Americanized chop suey still on offer, as well as barbecue pork, egg rolls, sweet-and-sour pork and other dishes, followed by a fortune cookie. Great-great-great grandson Jerry Tam now runs the restaurant, which was purchased by his father Ding Tam in the 1950s from his grandfather.
Wagner’s Village Inn
Oldenburg, Ind.
Owner: Dan Saccomando
Southeastern Indiana is known for its fried chicken (Colonel Sanders was originally a Hoosier), and one of the best sources is Wagner’s Village Inn in Oldenburg, a town with a population of 674 and known for its German-American history and historic churches.
At Wagner’s, the chicken is cooked simply with salt, pepper, flour and lard. But cooks are likely to go heavy with coarse-ground pepper, adding so much, the dish could be called “au poivre,” the foundation said. Family-style servings include coleslaw, green beans and mashed potatoes with gravy. Birds are served in 10 pieces, including the back and ribs.
Owner Ginger Saccomando’s parents opened Wagner’s Village in 1968. But the foundation said the parents learned to fry chicken from the owners of the Hearthstone in Metamora, a now-closed restaurant that is said to have pioneered the style of frying chicken.
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