The Culinary Institute of America is rethinking casual dining, pushing past the open-kitchen trend by sending chefs into the dining room. At The Restaurant at CIA Copia—an education center in Napa Valley, Calif., once operated by Julia Child—chefs are the servers, a setup aimed squarely at mitigating the wage gap between the front and back of house. “We’ve always noticed the disparity between cooks’ pay and waiters’ pay,” says Waldy Malouf, senior director of food and beverage operations for the CIA. “We graduate a lot of chefs, so it’s in our students’ interest to think about this.” Here’s a closer look at Copia’s service format.