Summer is the time when Maine lobster is most abundant and cost effective. To make the most of it, I boil the whole lobster and take it out of the shell. The knuckle meat is very tender and sweet but there’s not a large amount, so we chop it up fine and use it in an amuse bouche—a filling for gougere. The claw meat may go into a mousse that can serve as a first course on our tasting menu. For the next course, I like to brush the cooked lobster with a mixture of white miso, white soy sauce, vinegar and charred habanero, then grill it briefly to infuse the meat with a smoky flavor. The lobster’s head and shell go into the stockpot.