Daru is a Hindi term for moonshine, and it’s also the name of a cocktail bar with a robust food menu that chef Suresh Sundas and beverage director Dante Datta opened in August of 2021 in the H Street neighborhood in Washington, D.C. It soon gained local and national acclaim, thanks to its creative drinks, such as a Dirty Martini made with achar, a tangy type of Indian pickle, and food like paneer pesto tikka with honey and rhubarb and a blue cheese kebab with cashew and sour cherry.
They followed that success with the opening of Tapori, also on H Street, serving street food from across the Indian subcontinent.
Sundas is actually not from India, but Nepal, a country sandwiched between India and China, and he brings that heritage to bear with the use of timmur, a relative of Sichuan peppercorns that has a similar numbing effect and is popular in Nepalese cooking.
Since the restaurants are in D.C., and soft-shell crab season is upon us, Sundas is making use of the local delicacy on his current menus, and, in a recent conversation, he shared his approach to developing menu items. He’s joined by Datta, who discusses his beverage program.
Menu Talk is a collaboration between Restaurant Business Senior Menu Editor Pat Cobe and Bret Thorn, senior food & beverage editor of Nation’s Restaurant News. You can subscribe to it wherever you listen to podcasts.
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