Food

Bread rises to new status on menus

Innovation comes to the breadbasket, as restaurants upgrade service, variety and quality.
Biscuit with Everything seasoning
Photo courtesy of General Mills

Bread is gaining new status on restaurant menus, and consumers are eating it up.

Not only are operators paying more attention to the breadbasket—which kind of disappeared at upscale spots in recent years—sandwich carriers and breakfast breads are also getting an upgrade.

Despite the popularity of low-carb diets, bread is on the rise, according to a nationwide survey conducted by The Harris Poll for General Mills. 


As a pioneer of the artisan bread trend, bakery café concept Le Pain Quotidien has been a leader in boosting bread’s status. After all, bread is part of its name. But recently, the chain has incorporated more types of bread on the menu, said Ellen deSmedt Kilgariff, director of food & beverage.

For example, most of Le Pain’s tartines or open-faced sandwiches were traditionally made on their signature sourdough wheat, but now the Ricotta & Sweet Potato Toast and some others are offered on Five Grain & Raisin Bread as it makes for a better pairing “and is a way to introduce diners to a greater variety of our breads,” said deSmedt Kilgariff.

We've also noticed that a lot of our guests are opting for the Super Seed Bread now, which has regulars coming in frequently just for that particular bread,” she said. “This bread is made from gluten-free ingredients and is available only at our U.S. locations—not the LPQs worldwide.”

Favorite bread items when dining in restaurants or off-premise:


Bread as a differentiator

More customers are seeking out restaurants just for the bread. This is true of Dagon, a full-service independent in New York City specializing in Israeli and Levantine cuisine. There’s no complimentary breadbasket but several unique house-baked breads on offer, listed in a dedicated menu section with prices ranging from $4 to $12.

Jerusalem Bagel

Jerusalem bagel photo courtesy of Dagon

On the list are a signature Mediterranean flatbread, a Jerusalem bagel and Kubaneh. With its squashed sides, the Jerusalem bagel doesn’t resemble the usual bagel—it has a less dense texture and is baked into a crusty, oval-shaped ring with a seeded top. The Kubaneh is a buttery pull-apart loaf served in a chalice with labneh (strained yogurt cheese) for dipping. The fresh-from-the-oven flatbreads, often sprinkled with za’atar, are vehicles for assorted mezze.

Almost every table orders one of Dagon’s breads to share as a starter, said a server, raising check averages.

Kubaneh

Kubaneh photo courtesy of Dagon

Mediterranean chain Cava also distinguishes itself with its bread. Last year, the fast casual partnered with Damascus Bakery to upgrade its pita bread, used in its customizable and chef-curated pita sandwiches. The new sprouted grain pita boasts seven different grains, including wheat berries and lentils, and bakes up into bigger, fluffier rounds. The larger size means the pita can hold up to eight fillings for Cava’s sandwiches. The bread also accompanies orders of bowls and salads.

2021 also saw a bread upgrade for sandwich giant Subway, as part of the chain’s “Eat Fresh Refresh” menu overhaul. The Italian bread for its subs is now baked for a longer time at a higher temperature to create a crisper crust. And Subway’s multigrain bread is made with a new recipe, calling for Amber soft-grain wheat and three types of seeds.

Casual-dining chain Logan’s Roadhouse has been serving house-made, freshly baked yeast rolls alongside its steaks for 30 years. Now the signature recipe has been rejiggered slightly and turned into buns for Logan’s half-pound steak burgers and Roadhouse sandwiches.

The rolls are a fan favorite and the internet is filled with copycat recipes. Adapting the slightly sweet, buttery dough to buns makes them more accessible in everyday menu items, according to a statement from Logan’s Roadhouse.

Competing at breakfast

Breakfast is a natural meal occasion for bread innovation, and there’s been recent activity in that daypart as well. The well-known coffee concepts and bakery cafes have a rotating lineup of baked goods to tempt breakfast eaters. But new on the scene is global chain PappaRoti, which is just starting to introduce Americans to its signature coffee bun at the few cafes it’s opened in Michigan, Nebraska and most recently, Chicago.

This coffee bun is a sweet Asian pastry bun that PappaRoti developed in Malaysia about 20 years ago and has since spread to other international markets. It has a crunchy layer on top made from a rich creamy mixture that incorporates high-quality flour. “The magic starts the moment you bite into the crispy outer layer of the bun," said a PappaRoti spokesperson.

PappaRoti buns

Photo courtesy of PappaRoti

Along with the original coffee bun, PappaRoti menus a number of variations. These include the Ferrero Rocher Bun, the Nuts for Nutella Bun the Cotton Candy Bun and the Berries Delight Bun.

Breakfast destination Cracker Barrel is known for its Southern-style buttermilk biscuits, but often introduces LTOs that bring other breads into the spotlight. This past holiday season, the chain took its signature cinnamon rolls and expanded the item into a Cinnamon Roll Pie Breakfast for both dine-in and to-go customers. The special featured cinnamon rolls baked inside a pie crust and drizzled with cream cheese icing.

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