The Lost Cajun

The wandering Louisianan in question is Raymond “Griff” Griffin, a onetime fish lodge operator who left the land of gumbo and later found himself in the unlikely outpost of Frisco, Colo. He and his late wife opened a restaurant featuring just four Mississippi Delta specialties, including beignets. The authentic fare was a hit, leading to an expanded menu and outlets as far afield as Greenville, S.C. The emphasis is still on gumbos and platters of fried fish, with a few nods (such as pasta) to Yankee tastes.